BLUE-ED AWAY!

This island called Jeju must have been created by the gods as their own secret getaway.  And that is no hyperbole.  

This island in the Korean Peninsula is said to have formed two million years ago following volcanic eruptions making it a unique place. Visualise an oval shaped island - 73 km from east to west and 41 km from north south with the Halla Mountain, the highest in the country at 1,950m above sea level rising up from the centre, breath-taking volcanic landscapes, black lava rocks, deep blue waters, wild coastlines, endless beaches, stunning cliffs, miles of sub tropical forests, groves of mandarins, a more than 300 year old dormant volcano and the world's longest underground lava tube! No surprise then that it is the only place in the world to be bestowed a 'triple crown' by UNESCO as a World Natural Heritage Site, Global Geopark and Biosphere Reserve. In November 2011, Jeju Island was put on the list of The New Seven Wonders of the World. The gods surely must have crazy - crazy with happiness- while creating Jeju. 

Interestingly, Jeju has its own unique representation of god/s, Dol Hareubang or Old Grandfather.  The black stone statues always come in a pair. One doesn't know the origin but as per local folklore they represent protection and fertility. The old grandfathers  statues are generally placed around the entrances. 

Sometime in the 80s this beyond awe-inspiring island was put on the tourist map but thankfully nature still holds supreme. Most thankfully, after 30 odd golf courses, the authorities wised up and put a ban on further golfing greens

This island again must be, I am not too sure, the only place to have a museum of not not erotica, not love but Sex and Health! Yes you read it right. Lets get the oddball over and done with. First the stricture, nobody below 19 is allowed. The perfectly manicured sprawling gardens and lawn gives the first inkling of what's in store. There are statues - of all shapes and sizes and all kinds and none of them in any way convey erotica! A couple of quirky ones  too which took me sometime to figure out just what they were all about. I am also yet to discover why some of them had owls perched all over. Aren't owls supposed to be associated with wisdom, reason and all that? 

 'The Museum of Sex and Health has everything about curious sex'  (I didn't make this up) has different sections - education, sex culture,  sex fantasy etc and seems to be attempting to educate one on everything presumably related to sex from menstruation to erotica to sex culture all over to dildos. In the Sex Culture Hall Japanese, Peruvian, European and Chinese sex culture have been singled out and believe it or not, 'Obscene pictures from all over the world and Real doll that looks exactly like a person.' Not my claim or words again. One can even look into a bioscope like box and watch a young newlywed couple on their wedding night going the whole hog. Some of the artworks on canvas are such poor copies, that they are almost ludicrous. The purpose of the museum might have been well meant but what is on display is somewhat laughable. 

Thus the drive from the museum to Seogwipo was akin to escaping from a self-inflicted misery. This is the province's second largest city, plump on a rocky volcanic with the coastline on one side and  the lofty Seogwipo Lighthouse in red and white in the waters. The beach is more on the narrow side, but what is mesmerising is the spread of the water, so clear that if one peers closely, tiny aquatic life can become visible especially in the tidal pools. In the distance a huge boulder stands tall in all its black lava splendour adjoined to small isle like piece with its own smaller rock. One is lucky enough to find a couple of sea glass, smooth and frosted gloss in the most amazing shades of aqua green. 

Seogwipo is also where some of the best seafood restaurants are located.   On the way, one chances upon a feminine figure sporting a hat, quirky mask and a garland of fluorescent pink plastic flowers selling Jeju mandarins, which she claimed was from her own home garden. She could teach some marketing tricks to business management graduates! Biting into a Jeju mandarin is an experience never to be forgotten;  bursting with juice, sweet and so refreshing. When it is the sea, it is given that sea food cannot be far behind. Its a heavenly meal of buttery steamed abalone, grilled mackerel, Korean rice and the several accompaniments, that is de rigueur in Korean dining, with tangerine makgeolli.

From the rather confusing sex museum episode to the sublime Spirited Garden was redemption alright. What is today one of the most beautiful garden ever was once a desolate wasteland.  It took one humble  farmer, Bum-Young Sung decades to convert the barren land into an exquisite creation. In the 60s, South Korea was a far cry from the nation it is today, recovering from three decades and half of Japanese occupation and the war that split the nation into two and yet in Hangyeon-myeon, in one corner of Jeju Island, farmer Sung, now the director of the garden, bravely decided to build a garden that would provide spiritual solace to all. 

To transform a basalt covered wasteland into a little piece of heaven would naturally seem foolhardy, improbable and a madman's  pipedream, but not to director Sung. Opened to the public in 1992, the 10-acre garden divided into seven sections has over 2000 Bunjae (Bonsai in Korea) and over 100 species of trees.  It's not just the trees, there are  blooms and koi filled ponds, waterfalls, stone bridges, rocks, statues and observatory.  Remember Jeju is an island and one of the first thing that director Sung did was to construct huge stone walls to block the harsh winds from the seas.

Walking through the Spirited Garden is truly a meditative journey.  Many others might have sat back and revelled in the plaudits coming their way and visits by some world leaders including two Chinese presidents,  but not director Sung; everyday he is at work with his team putting in hours of physical labour.  Humbleness is something he epitomises.

Ebullient seems too tame to describe someone like 'Elin'. This dynamic mother of two teenager and our guide for the day, is herding a group of disparate tourists into the bus and making it seem like child's play. The tour starts with Hallim Park - a combination of botanical and bonsai garden, a birds section, a small recreated folk village and the Ssangyong Cave. After the Spirited Garden visit the previous day, there is a sort of feeling of watching a rerun in some sections. The cave has an interesting history, formed by the eruption of Mount Halla, it is said to be shaped like two dragons and 'the only unique place in the world where a lava cave and a limestone cave are joined together' as also apparently the only lava cave in the world to contain stalagmites and stalactites. 

The entrance to it is spacious and even inside, at least till the 'Living Rock', the domed ceilings are high enough and the walking path is all cobbled. Beyond that, we are told, is where the authentic cave experience begins. The Living Rock comes has its own unusual birth story. In brief, the rock fell through the ceiling and over years the hole, right above it, began to dwindle down in size because the leaking limestone solidified whereas the rock grew bigger thanks to the limestone drops that fell on in and, what else, but solidified.  What is fascinating is  that 'cave corals' like the ones in the sea, grow in the water in the middle of the rock. Now the Eureka moment - living rock because it is still growing!

To be honest, the universal concept of  recreated 'folk villages'  comes across as flat. That applies to all such villages in any nation.  In the zoo section, Hallim Park has reptiles and birds. Giving the reptile section a wide berth, one decided to check out the birds.  And who do you think are strutting about there? Peacocks. Back home peacocks are the 'national birds' and the first reaction like that of a petulant child is why are 'our' birds all over here. Sure there are other birds too including some very grumpy ostrich, but hell no! the peacocks particularly one decided to act like a prima donna trailing the visitors and even going into the 'have you seen any feathers more brilliant than mine' display mode. There is a small man made waterfall and cafes around too and some toilets totally constructed of volcanic rocks.

Adjoining the park, there is a small stretch of forests. A quick conducted walk follows. There was nothing strenuous about it and not very exciting either except for a circular big pit, a miniature version of an earthhole naturally formed and almost concealed by canopy of trees. However, the trail  on  one side slopes down and one finds a neat entrance to it. Not just that, one finds tree stumps arranged around in an almost circular pattern and one would like to believe that when all the humans leave and the sun sinks in the west, the elder denizens of the forest, spirits and all gather there to confabulate and take stock of the damage done!

For organic green tea connoisseurs the Korean brand, Osulloc with its earthy-smoky after taste is quite a favourite. And Jeju is its home. Like the Spirited Garden, it involved a pioneering effort to first make the land arable. From the late 70s when the first cultivation started to the present day, it has been an enviable success story. From tea gardens the brand  moved on to set up a tea museum, a Cafe and an observatory on the floors above. The museum is a sleek work of marvellous architecture.  One can do the usual tea tasting, buy the teas and move on to the (overcrowded) Cafe where the best selling item is green tea ice cream. No offence intended, but its the Japanese Macha ice cream for me. The best thing to do here to go to the two decks above the Cafe, which for whatever reason had hardly any takers and get an all round view of the surroundings; picture perfect.

 

They call it Cheonjiyeon Waterfall, but there are actually three falls. The route is as usual a little up climb and going down and the first one is well, rather disappointing. In the first fall the water flow is more on the trickle side and the explanation offered is that it was waiting for the rains to bulk up.  The other one sort of makes up for the water deficit especially the pool beneath it. The delightful discovery is the picture on a board that reveals that on the 6th day of the 11 lunar in 1702, the local magistrate and the soldiers accompanying him on an inspection tour of Jeju, practised archery there. Sporty man!

More than Chieonjiyeon Waterfall, the  Seonim Bridge over it draws all attention. The red and white arch bridge joins the east flank to the west flank. The bridge also called the Seven Nymphs Bridge has intricate carvings of seven nymphs on both its sides. Unfortunately, even from the observation deck it is difficult to get a close look at the sides. There's compensation however in the expansive view from the bridge.  More compensation comes in the form of the oriental structure, atop  a flight of steps, and the superb murals and paintings on not just the walls but the whole ceiling. The colour palette is beautiful. And for the touristy trap there is a wishing fountain with four stone turtles on the top. The catch here is not to fling the coins into the pool but into the pot held up by the turtles. Tell that to the island winds which ensures that the coins fall every where but the pot!

If you cannot go to the mountains, you can at least view it. We settled for that for Seongsan Ichulbong, the more than 5000 years old tuff cone formed by volcanic eruptions standing about 180m above sea level. The viewing platforms are about 20 minutes to half an hour climb up, depending on the state of your knees and up to what viewing point you want to reach. It is a climb up in true sense, broad steps almost all the way and paved paths all the way,  to take in the stunning vista that opens out. Unfortunately, the impediment was the time limit, but even then the blues of the endless waters and the unique Seongsan Ichulbong is a scene that etches itself on your mind. The tuff cone, also referred to as the Sunrise Peak, was once upon a time a separate island but gradually it got connected to Jeju.

 

Hypnotising. And even that is an understatement. The black cliffs of  Jusangjeollidae, the about 2 km long magnificent stretch of columns in a blend of black and grey leaves one gaping.  The columns were formed when the Hallasan Volcano erupted and the lava flow crackled while cooling down and solidified into columns/pillars.  At some points the base extends further into the waters and tapers off into smaller stump like versions. The stunning columns and the deep blue of the ocean is an entrancing combination. There are viewing decks at different spots on the way down to the cliff and from every point it is difficult to draw the eyes away. One would rate this as the best side of Jeju Island.  

If placed alongside the grandeur of Jusangjeollidae, the single 20 metres high sea stack, Oeldolgae would still hold its own in equal measure. After walking through the Sammae-Bong Park on the southern coast of Jeju, one can view the 'Lonely Rock'  in the sea standing erect like a sentinel. The sea stack Oeldolgae (of grey trachyandesite with tiny holes in it) was formed after eons of erosion of molten rock. There is another much told story about it that dates back to the Goryeo dynasty period when a general battling invading forces disguised the rock as a 'giant general' and the enemy turned tails and fled!  Myths aside,  looking at it from the viewing platform there is something haunting about the lonely sea stack especially as the evening sets in.  

From the mesmerising wonders of nature at work to the man-made attempt to delude one could be interpreted as a major come down, but the Alive Museum stops short of that leaving one tickled. The museum is a quite a crowd puller except that when we were there it was an endless stream of school kids. The museum can be called a home of optical illusion, even mind binding. Sit yourself as a patron at Vincent Van Gogh's Terrace Cafe at Night, lower yourself into a giant Campbells's tomato soup can, offer your head on a platter of fruit, pose at Claude Monet's garden, wear a velvety costume and become a prima donna, hop on Aladdin's carpet. Get the drift? The museum is that place where age is irrelevant and undiluted fun all the way. 

History might be in the past but it can surface in the most unexpected way. And it did at the Lee Jung Seob Art Gallery (Ijungseop-ro). One was totally ignorant about the artist too. Travelling teaches, doesn't it?  Though not a Jeju native, the artist lived in the island for some years and how he came to do so makes an emotive narration. Born in North Korea during the time of Japanese occupation, always inclined towards art, went to Tokyo to study, met and married Japanese poet Yamamoto Masako and moved back to Korea. Since then his life was wrecked by misfortune and misery. The first born lost to diphtheria and the most tragic, the 1950 Korean war that saw the family, that now included two sons, fleeing what is now North Korea and moving to Busan and finally Jeju. As the war worsened he sent his family to Japan while staying back. In a war torn country he still tried to create art; miniature paintings on post cards with happy almost childlike work that he sent to his family. What he did not send convey the state of his mind- drawings on the tin foil wrappers of his cigarette cartons with hardened expressions, fighting figures. Cliched as it may read, art is indeed a reflection and repository of times prevailing.

The feeling of heaviness on leaving the gallery found relief in the most absurd way, absurd to me. Outside, an effort was on to prune  some of the high rising trees and it involved a team of more than four, one of them perched high on the roof of the building close to the gallery, a firefighter lift, cables, huge shears etc. However, someone seemed to have an issue with that. A cat, that looked like a stray one, kept getting in the way. Either the cat was attempting to join the man on the roof or he didn't like trees being pruned. . Unfortunately, one could not stay on to watch how the cat-ty story ended. Talking of cats and dogs, earlier a a sun-glassed poodle in a car  had everyone reaching for their phone cameras and the dog clearly knew how cool he looked!

It also feels better to walk out on the street outside and be greeted by murals and paintings on the walls, vintage shops, bright colours, cafes, stores et al. 

 

To the market, to the market is a refrain with one, whatever the place visited. So it was in Jeju and the covered Dongmun traditional market was tailor made to shut up the refrain. The market that came up after the Japanese occupation ended in 1945, is the oldest, covered and huge. For an old traditional market, the layout and the cleanliness is commendable. In terms of the products on sale, food and everything food related reigns supreme. There are fresh produce, there are dried produce, small eateries, snack stalls and there are unending seafood. Then, there are lanes of other goods too including clothes and souvenirs. There are facets to all  markets but what one finds most appealing is is all about the 'local' - the produce, the people, the vibes. Dongmun has all  that and a little more; it is also a night market where it is just food stalls. 

The to-the-market refrain is then replaced by another - what shall we eat,  maybe this or maybe that or maybe the one we saw there.... 

All good tales must come to an end and so must this one!