DOCK IT!

Picture perfect! It might sound trite but that's the phrase that best encapsulates what Bryggen, the 12th century historic harbour district in Bergen (Norway), is all about. With the waterfront and the hills behind framing it, Bryggen is like an unfolding once- upon-a-time story and truly deserves to be included in the UNESCO World Heritage List.  

That feeling of going to a place of wonder begins right from the flight from the island of Bornholm in Denmark itself. Spread out below is the stunning theatre of nature with the myriad shades of blue water, occasional snow streaked rugged hills and gradually the fjords that pop up here and there which, initially look like giant uneven moss beds. You instinctively feel the sense of nearing a crescendo and like all classical renderings there is no disappointment.

 

From the 12th century to now Bryggen brings alive the Bard's 'age cannot wither her, no custom stale, Her infinite variety' despite the number of fires over the centuries. After every fire, Bryggen was rebuilt as per the original structure and plan. The why and how of Bryggen is equally interesting. It all started with the Hanseatic League, the German commercial confederation of market guilds and market towns that originated in North German towns in the early 12 the century and went on to dominate Baltic Maritime trade for three centuries along the coast of Northern Europe.  In 1350 the Hanseatic League established an office in Bergen and went on to acquire ownership of Bryggen. Of the four overseas offices that the League set up, the only preserved till today is Bryggen. 

 

If the iconic waterfront Bryggen facade with its tall and slim gabled wooden houses is a stop-and-stare in awe scene, what lies behind it is more than captivating. It is actually like stepping into a medieval world with its rows of two-three storeys historic houses, intriguing alleys and much more. Sure, there the shops, cafes, galleries and studios but all housed in the centuries old timber  structures. At one time there must have been more of the buildings and houses but the fires over the ages claimed its pounds and presently there are 62 buildings still intact. Bryggen was basically a township of bachelor German merchants who were said to have their residences on the top floors with the lower ones  functioning as individual or collective storehouses. An architect or historian could best describe the layout and the constructions but to a layman it is an enchanting little world that no one could tire of. The artist studios, the potters, jeweller, leather craftsmen all add to the charm. There is also a Hanseatic museum but it was just our bad luck that it was undergoing renovation then.

 

 

 

 

 

 

There is no getting enough of the charming heritage quarter of Bergen. One way of saying bye to the medieval beauty is to slip in one of the quaint cafes and raise a toast and say Prost! Just the way the Hanseatic league members did. 

 

 HERE WE GO IN CIRCLES!

One round and another round, then another, then another and more and more, walking around in circles is not always meaningless. It was just that the breathing was going haywire while everyone was all smiles. Going up the cobbled spiral to the top of the 36 metre high Rundetaarn or The Round Tower with its astronomical observatory in central Copenhagen is more than a test of stamina, it is also an indicator of just how fit one is. More than that, a cruel reminder that age certainly catches up and on the spiral path, very very fast! No wonder than that everyone was smiling because turning a corner signalled a victory of sorts. Every single window on the way up provided a perfect excuse to stop, take in and admire the view, often pretend to admire it, so that one's breathing could hit a decent keel! Besides the climb up, what took one's breath away was also those who cheerfully pushed differently- abled in wheel chairs all the way. That's what being a family means.

The 17th century tower and observatory, built by Christian IV, is the oldest functioning observatory in Europe and was used by noted Danish astronomer Tycho Brahe for his work. The tower might be 36 metres tall but due to the circular path, it's  209 metres walk to the spiral-shaped ramp at the top. It's a path that not only ordinary mortals walked on and walk still, but kings and astronomers too had no option but to cover the circuitous ramp on foot in the days gone by. An exception however,was Peter the Great of Russia who rode up on his horse to the top. True horsepower in every sense. 

 

The view from there is an endless stretch of roofs and tops of buildings broken now and then by medium skyscrapers and spires. Unfortunately, visitors are not allowed onto the circular observatory leaving one to admire the giant telescope. Incidentally, half way up the circular ramp is the old university library hall that serves as a venue for exhibitions and I loved the meeting of the very old and the very contemporary exhibition that was on display then.  There is also a huge all-wood attic with a conical roof, entry barred again. The most arresting sight was the natural light streaming in from a small window, almost like a halogen lamp highlighting a rocking chair. It left me wondering how old the rocking chair was and the person/s that at one time must have sat on it, maybe reading a book or simply rocking gently with the head pushed back and eyes closed. Another eye grabber is the little niche with a wooden commode with a lid! A small niche on the right wall was clearly used to put the candle stand  as demonstrated by the big fat lit candle in a glass enclosed holder. Gross as it may sound, was the sewage system then the portable pail? 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Completing the trinity of the the Round Tower and the Copenhagen University Library is the the Trinitatis Church better known as the Trinity Church, a stunning piece of work if ever. What is amazing is that 72 years after it was consecrated as a church for the professors and students of the university in 1656, a fire damaged much of the interiors but thankfully, four years it was rebuilt and restored retaining all it magnificent glory. Presently it is an ordinary parish church with services every Sunday.

 

 

 

No horse, no power however mighty, and all the treasures in the world, heck not even a gun to my head can get me to board one of those terrifying rides in the amusement parks! This is the mother who let her only child go solo on a 100ft plunge ride in Sea World San Diego (USA) and who later, had to put up with being pointed out as ' yes this is the chicken heart mother' by the offspring to the tittering fellow riders. Much before entering Tivoli Gardens and Amusement Park right at the centre of Copenhagen,  the  speeding swirling swings that rides up a giant pole is visible from  a long way. And that was not where I was willing to go but when it's a party of two, well one side has to surrender, of course with clear conditions. Said to be the second oldest theme park in the world founded in 1843 - apparently Walt Disney visited it several times to gather inspiration- it is indeed a special place. The gardens ablaze with all shades of blooms, birds and exotic birds including a rather lonely looking peacock (I was told that there was a pair but maybe the partner had enough of thrills for the day), water bodies, themed buildings and all that jazz, it certainly works its magic gradually. But not that magical to get into The Demon or the Star Flyer or whatever. While I stayed happy on terra firma indulging in the childish shootings, horse racing where tiny little horses galloped to the finishing course depending on how fast and how successfully you shoot balls into holes and won a couple of bucks, the husband went swinging and swirling up and down. That's not my kind of adrenaline rush.      

 

 

 

It might be touristy to the umpteenth but the waterfront, Nyhavn  with its rows of colourful houses and cafes is the perfect place to sit back and relax, dine on various delicacies, listen to music of all kinds, people watch, in brief enjoy doing nothing. One doesn't even to get into the restaurants or cafes, there is always a little space to squeeze in and plant your bottom on the little parapets or better still, sit on the side of the cobbled path itself resting the back against the parapet nursing a can or bottle and munchies. The best kind of lotus eating. Again a 17th century harbour originally built to load and unload cargoes and soon and naturally, turned into, what else, but a place where sailors came for R&R of all kinds and that means all kinds. The next best thing to do is ride down the canal and once again, watch the world pass by.  Some of the passages are however so low that if you are tall make sure you lower your head all the way down to avoid any mishaps. That's a small price to pay!