BY GEORGE!
IT'S WASHINGTON
It makes you almost poetical, it does. Georgetown does. Throw in a palette of rainbow colours and more, cobblestone paths, tree lined avenues, 18th and 19th century architecture, waterfront and dollops of history and Washington DC's oldest neighbourhood simply bowls you over. At nearly two centuries and 70 decades, that's no mean feat.
Georgetown also made me consider a cleaning up act - exercise wise that is. Jogging and loping runs appeared to be the common mode of commuting! It also made me rethink yoga. Or rather think yoga since I am not even at acquaintance nodding stage with the ancient Indian discipline. Every second rucksack or shoulder had a yoga mat popping out or slung and yoga studios were dime a dozen. And to think that Georgetown was founded in 1751 as a tobacco port town in Maryland. Go smoke that!
Georgetown might have been home to a long list of former US presidents, but politics is the last thing you would connect with it, at least visually. It is an interesting interlacing of old history and quaint charms with sheer sophistication, innate elegance and youthful exuberance with the vast student population everywhere. And for whatever reason it felt like old money to me, you have it but you don't flaunt it.
History it has by bucket loads. Naturally. All those who suppose that the town is named after George Washington - you suppose wrong. And it is not named even after the original landowners George Beall and George Gordon. When the Maryland Assembly authorised a town on the Potomac river on 60 acres of land belonging to the two Georges- Beall and Gordon- it was named after King George 11!
The town went through an economic see-saw from prosperity to total slump. In fact, at one time it was called Washington's worst slum. The 1930s however saw a reversal of its misfortunes and by the 1950s when John F Kennedy chose to reside in Georgetown, it had regained its old glory. Fact or fiction? Nobody knows for sure but there are two claimants, Martin's Tavern, Georgetown and Parker's Restaurant, Boston Bay for the honour of being the venue where John Kennedy proposed to Jackie. And if you are in Georgetown what else can you do but at least go and take a look at the place.
While we are on Presidents and eateries can Barrack Obama and Ben's Chili Bowl be far behind? Ben's Chili Bowl, the original one at 1213, U Street, NW Washington DC can be called the core of African American culture and history and a landmark for six decades. This is where on January 10, 2009, President elect Obama walked in to have his lunch. That was just 10 days before he became the first black American President. It was launched by Virginia and Ben Ali, originally from Trinidad in 1958! The original building was a silent cinema and the young couple pooled in all their savings to launch the legendary eatery.
There's something charming about Ben's Chili Bowl and everything from the floor to the walls to the menu say old history. While Ben is no more, Virginia Ali, in her eighties, is sprightly as ever and fully hands on leaving her three sons to expand the business further and further. It was one of those unforgettable moment when she headed straight towards us and said, "Indians?" The next moment I was enveloped in a warm hug. She couldn't wait to tell us about her late husband's Indian roots. Not just that, one of her daughter-in-law is from India! The legendary sauce that everyone raves about certainly has a touch of Indian flavour.
The atmosphere is completely different at Washington Harbour, Georgetown's waterfront along the Potomac River. Early evenings are clearly the best times to be there with eateries of every kind facing the river. It's quiet a view with Kennedy Centre, Roosevelt Island, Key Bridge and fancy boats. If you are adventurous there are kayaks and canoes to rent and even paddling lessons on offer. Then there are fancy boats and some of them - ok one that was closest to where we were sitting - had three females with perfectly toned bodies in minimum swimwear. It wasn't surprising that many seemed to be preferring to hire that particular boat for a ride down the river. With the Americans everything is upfront - you just want a drink or two and some snacks, sorry no front row seats for you! Drinks, dinner and the works, you get the prime seats facing the river. We never seem to learn - we forget that servings here are enormous and we had reassure the waiters that it wasn't the food just our incapacity to eat so much at one go when they came to clear the table.
There's always a farmers market and Georgetown obliged with the usual culprits from certified organic to spirits to kombucha and kimchi, breads to fruits and flowers.
The market that I wanted to go to was another historic address, Eastern Market in Capitol Hill designated as a National Historic Landmark. Somehow the proposed dates would always fall through till it reached a point when it was tomorrow morning or not at all. Morning saw us there but unfortunately, it was a weekday and the usual throng was missing. That didn't in anyway subtract its charms. The market is about 136 years old, completed in 1873; the Center and North Hall were added in the early 20th century. The next century however brought disaster. In April 2007 a fire ravaged the market. But in true American never-say-die spirit the authorities and the public came together not just to rebuild it but restore its architectural features. Its not just a market, it is the destination for fresh food, community events, local farm produce, handicrafts, arts and much more.
The market is said to serve as a community hub and it certainly seemed to be one. Gradually, more and more people walked in and it was touching to see many senior couples having their breakfast. And what I loved most was to see two policemen take their place in the queue at one diner and patiently wait for their turn to place their orders and pay up. I would love to see beat constables in Delhi doing that!
In today's world of fake news and imprisonment of journalists if they don't toe the line of the party in power, The Newsuem, Pennsylvania Avenue, stands tall upholding the simple dictum that a free press is the cornerstone of democracy. As it says, 'people have a need to know, journalists have a right to tell'. And tell it is as it is. An interactive Newsuem spread over seven levels with 15 galleries and 15 theaters. It's a lifetime experience that everybody should have, a chance to know all about the defining moments n our history. One can see the antennae from the top of the World Trade Centre, a huge section of The Berlin Wall, The Times Square Bomber SUV, Pulitzer prize winning photographs that makes one stop and undergo churning emotions. It's a place that keeps alive the ugly truths of the world in people's memories and brings home the sad fact that in doing so many people have lost their lives. For those seeking their that momentary moment of fame, there's the Photo Op to be a Reporter. There are 90 minute private tours available that will help one to understand better the memory and conscience keeper of the world. I would have preferred to spend spend the whole day there.
It was not just us, I've to allot the bingeing blame to friends too, including those who flew in from out of town! They knew the best eating spots, big and small. The family Grenwald took us to Chef Tony's at Bethesda, Maryland where Chef Tony Marciante and his wife Chef Sonia Marciante presented some of the most delicious sea food spread. On our own, we wouldn't have ever, ever found out about Chef Tony's and missed out on one of the best dining experiences ever.
Then were pleasant surprises too. Everyday we passed an Italian restaurant called Ristorante La Perla, at virtually whispering distance from the hotel we were staying in Georgetown. One more Italian diner, we told ourselves, until one late evening when a friend's daughter, a student at the university, said she would like to eat Italian food. We sauntered in at our ultra casual best and it was one of those rare damn, I am not dressed to dine here moment. What we thought was another pasta-pizza affair turned to be a pearl indeed, a nearly decade and a half old restaurant founded by Chef Vittorio Testa turning out Italian recipes that he had developed over the past 50 years. The place seemed to be quite a celebrity hot-spot with pratrons from Sophia Loren, Leonardo DiCaprio, Pierce Brosnan to who-have-you and their pictures with Chef Vittorio welcoming you in. Classic Italian fare that one couldn't have enough of.
Nothing however could match the warmth and hospitality 'dil se' (from the heart as we say) that old friends laid out at their home. Friends know what your heart and stomach like and she had picked up the best. The scrumptious spread, the night out on the deck, ceaseless conversations- we could have gone on forever. Just that the moon told us it was time even for her to go to bed!
Georgetown might have been home to a long list of former US presidents, but politics is the last thing you would connect with it, at least visually. It is an interesting interlacing of old history and quaint charms with sheer sophistication, innate elegance and youthful exuberance with the vast student population everywhere. And for whatever reason it felt like old money to me, you have it but you don't flaunt it.
History it has by bucket loads. Naturally. All those who suppose that the town is named after George Washington - you suppose wrong. And it is not named even after the original landowners George Beall and George Gordon. When the Maryland Assembly authorised a town on the Potomac river on 60 acres of land belonging to the two Georges- Beall and Gordon- it was named after King George 11!
The town went through an economic see-saw from prosperity to total slump. In fact, at one time it was called Washington's worst slum. The 1930s however saw a reversal of its misfortunes and by the 1950s when John F Kennedy chose to reside in Georgetown, it had regained its old glory. Fact or fiction? Nobody knows for sure but there are two claimants, Martin's Tavern, Georgetown and Parker's Restaurant, Boston Bay for the honour of being the venue where John Kennedy proposed to Jackie. And if you are in Georgetown what else can you do but at least go and take a look at the place.
While we are on Presidents and eateries can Barrack Obama and Ben's Chili Bowl be far behind? Ben's Chili Bowl, the original one at 1213, U Street, NW Washington DC can be called the core of African American culture and history and a landmark for six decades. This is where on January 10, 2009, President elect Obama walked in to have his lunch. That was just 10 days before he became the first black American President. It was launched by Virginia and Ben Ali, originally from Trinidad in 1958! The original building was a silent cinema and the young couple pooled in all their savings to launch the legendary eatery.
There's something charming about Ben's Chili Bowl and everything from the floor to the walls to the menu say old history. While Ben is no more, Virginia Ali, in her eighties, is sprightly as ever and fully hands on leaving her three sons to expand the business further and further. It was one of those unforgettable moment when she headed straight towards us and said, "Indians?" The next moment I was enveloped in a warm hug. She couldn't wait to tell us about her late husband's Indian roots. Not just that, one of her daughter-in-law is from India! The legendary sauce that everyone raves about certainly has a touch of Indian flavour.
The atmosphere is completely different at Washington Harbour, Georgetown's waterfront along the Potomac River. Early evenings are clearly the best times to be there with eateries of every kind facing the river. It's quiet a view with Kennedy Centre, Roosevelt Island, Key Bridge and fancy boats. If you are adventurous there are kayaks and canoes to rent and even paddling lessons on offer. Then there are fancy boats and some of them - ok one that was closest to where we were sitting - had three females with perfectly toned bodies in minimum swimwear. It wasn't surprising that many seemed to be preferring to hire that particular boat for a ride down the river. With the Americans everything is upfront - you just want a drink or two and some snacks, sorry no front row seats for you! Drinks, dinner and the works, you get the prime seats facing the river. We never seem to learn - we forget that servings here are enormous and we had reassure the waiters that it wasn't the food just our incapacity to eat so much at one go when they came to clear the table.
There's always a farmers market and Georgetown obliged with the usual culprits from certified organic to spirits to kombucha and kimchi, breads to fruits and flowers.
The market is said to serve as a community hub and it certainly seemed to be one. Gradually, more and more people walked in and it was touching to see many senior couples having their breakfast. And what I loved most was to see two policemen take their place in the queue at one diner and patiently wait for their turn to place their orders and pay up. I would love to see beat constables in Delhi doing that!
Like always, we failed miserably in reining our gastronomy gluttony! Unfortunately, my usual insistence on dining on Indian food too went for a toss. It wasn't exactly my fault, blame it on the Chef.In Washington you get to hear of Rasika, ranked 8th among the 100 best restaurants in town and you hear of Chef Vikram Sunderam. He was the one entrusted with the task of preparing the lunch for Prime Minister Modi, on his first visit to the US after winning the 2014 elections at a banquet hosted by the Vice President and the State Secretary. This was one time you become so proud of being an Indian and of Indian food. And if that wasn't enough, desserts were on the house! Thank you Chef Sunderam.
It was not just us, I've to allot the bingeing blame to friends too, including those who flew in from out of town! They knew the best eating spots, big and small. The family Grenwald took us to Chef Tony's at Bethesda, Maryland where Chef Tony Marciante and his wife Chef Sonia Marciante presented some of the most delicious sea food spread. On our own, we wouldn't have ever, ever found out about Chef Tony's and missed out on one of the best dining experiences ever.
Nothing however could match the warmth and hospitality 'dil se' (from the heart as we say) that old friends laid out at their home. Friends know what your heart and stomach like and she had picked up the best. The scrumptious spread, the night out on the deck, ceaseless conversations- we could have gone on forever. Just that the moon told us it was time even for her to go to bed!
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