SHORT AND SWEET

The Times, UK recently carried an extensive article on the '18 Most beautiful places in England'. While Cotswold and the Lake District figured right up there along with The Thames at Cookham, Berkshire, Holy Island, Northumberland, Wyedale, Peak District, Test Valley, Hampshire, York, North Yorkshire, Bath, Somerset among others, Henley-on-Thames figured nowhere. And that, initially broke my heart! But thankfully, sense prevailed as it meant no hordes of tourists overcrowding one of the most beautiful place. Confession time with the I-cannot-tell-a-lie honesty, one had no clue about the place till some friends insisted that we had visit Henley come what may. The inner me went hmm, what can up the Lake District and Cotswold. And no, Henley is not Henry misspelt or lisped!

Apparently Henley was voted at one time by both The Times and The Telegraph as one of the best places to live in the English countryside. It certainly fits the bill.  A town and civil parish on the River Thames in South Oxfordshire district it brings alive all the charms of times past by - from centuries old buildings, beautiful houses along the riverbank, a church that dates back to 1204, the iconic Henley Bridge, the annual Henley Festival of Music and Arts on a floating stage with the best of performers in front of the bridge,  the Town Hall, the market square, a distillery and above all, the annual Henley Royal Regatta that has seen international rowers participate for over 185 years, the event having been first established in 1839..  

It was a cloudy day as we headed out for Henley-on-Thames for a day's outing. We took the tube till West Ruislip from London and the first thing that caught the eye as we got out and walked up, was a eatery and shop named Indian Spices with its shelves choc a bloc with Indian namkin (savouries) and chips in brightly coloured packets with familiar brand names. Turned out that Pradip Bhai and his wife run the show. Pradip worked as a chef for over 15 years all over England before turning entrepreneur and now he says, his major business is catering. Naturally the interaction involved ginger tea- overtly sweet - Punjabi samosas and dal kachori which was quiet tasty.

The drive to Henley-on-Thames was through country roads lined with trees and hedges, tall walls and gates depriving any glimpses of the houses behind and then, a detour because somewhere vehicles started lining up with nobody able to guess the reason. Henley-on-Thames unfolded gently as if to say, be patient the best is yet to come. It was English countryside in the true sense but more elite justifying why it is said to have the most expensive homes in the country.  An interesting historical snippet: the first recorded history of Henley on Thames goes back to 1179 when King Henry II bought land 'for the making of buildings'. If buildings bring to mind boring cemented structures, forget it, the houses and the cottages around are stunning.   

One moment we were in the car park and then, a short walk later one was bowled over by the vista that spread out - the river with its banks lined with old gorgeous houses and charming gardens boat, the iconic bridge, lined up boats with the Chiltern Hills rising up as a picturesque background and green expansive green fields rolling out. The town is situated on the edge of the Chiltern Hills area famous for its outstanding natural beauty. A cliche but there is no better way of describing it  - the whole scene could have been out of a story book especially the Henley bridge. Described as a masterwork of Georgian architecture it was built in 1786. The bridge then was a wooden structure which, it is believed might have been a replacement itself for an older stone bridge as two stone arches on both sides of the river still exist.  

What do you do first when you are in an enchanting English countryside town on the banks of the Thames, especially when there is a slight drizzle. Hit a pub of course. I liked that the cider I had came from the House of Thatchers, family cider makers since 1904. Silly of course but just wondered if the Iron Lady had ever tried it. Paired with fried haddock,  the cider went down smooth. 

Boating is a must said our friends and no attempts at wriggling out worked. No boatman, said our friends and the boatman literally put up his arms with the unsaid, its your funeral mate. The initial trepidation soon gave way to pure joy. Under the historic bridge and ours the sole boat sailed across vast waters.  On the banks, mostly on one side, stood houses that whispered discreet old wealth. Reports are that the houses in Henley-on-Thames are the most expensive houses in the country. If there are stately and elegant houses, it is given there will be well maintained gardens too and there were as well as private anchored boats and again given, groups of ducks gliding across the waters. While on gardens, the Mill Meadows, the recreational park right next to the River Thames has received the Green Flag Award for the last consecutive ten years. It contains rolling greens, gardens, a bandstand and even a wildlife area, playground and of course, a Cafe too.

A hour or so boating and one understood why the annual Henley Royal Regatta is such a big international rowing event. The competition started in 1839! The event, one was informed, has Olympic medal winners,  top universities from all over the world, elite clubs an national crews participating over six days. What Wimbledon is to tennis, Henley is to rowing. One was also told that blazer wearing spectators far outnumber the non wearers.  For the last 50 years the regatta has also seen some intensive rowing from women. As we passed the  Henley Rowing Club, quite a few women rowers could be seen preparing to sail.  

Adding to the by gone charm of Henley-on-Thames was the thousands of years old The Parish Church of St Mary. The church was founded in the 13th century having been mentioned in recorded history in 1204 and it has beautifully stood the test of times. Close to the market square, it is an impressive structure with its tower, visible from distance, its gothic architecture, a grand nave and above all, the giant stained glass windows and what I loved best, the bright coloured cross stitched cushions on the pews. In an unusual medley the centuries old grand architecture, the hallowed atmosphere, the little sectioned off kids corner and everything inside and outside create a world of welcome, warmth and serenity.

The market square too emits medieval look and appeal complete with timber framed structures with chimneys housing shops, eateries etc. A place made to amble around, peer through shop windows with a genial hail-to-the -world spirit. And in that ye ole English corner, we found an Asian eatery located in one of the centuries old building and settled for oriental fare. Believe me, no discordant notes were struck !   

GOING FURTHER SOUTH 

Quite a bit of old and ample amount of new and very new is what Southampton feels like on a short transit. The port city on the south coast of England is also the place from where the ill-fated Titanic set sail in 1912. What the mind sees are cinematic scenes of the port from the movie Titanic, what the eyes actually see is a giant sleek modern ship next to an equally sleek all glass fronted tall building which is the entry for boarding. Move away a bit and swing your vision too and its like going back in time and that too a long long way ago. 

From just a name on the map of England, Southampton , during our brief stay, turned into a beautiful city - perfect coming together of history and present day -that one wished had more time to explore especially the Sea City Museum which houses an interactive model of the Titanic. 

Looking out from the windows and balcony of our accommodation, the view could have been from times long past but for the road and cars parked on it and couple of shop fronts. What stood out among the brick and stonewalled buildings, some with pretty tall chimneys was a church with a spire that rose several feet high. There was something commanding about it. Later one found that the church and the surrounding areas comprised part of the medieval walled town of Southampton.  Not just that, the Church, a Grade 1 listed building, is deemed the oldest building, having been founded in 1070 and it is still functional. The more interesting aspect was that while the other churches were destroyed in bombings during the World War 11, St Michael was spared because apparently the German bombers used the spire as a landmark!

After the Norman conquest walls were built as defensive structures between the 12th and 14th century to protect the city from further invasions. The walls encircled the medieval town and centuries later following what remains of the walls - thanks to signposts and plaques telling their stories - make a fascinating exercise. The Bargate, the 12th century gatehouse considered the symbol of the city, the Arundel Tower brings history alive particularly The Arcades, the medieval shopping street built into the wall. Walking through some of the narrow cobbled streets, one could imagine the clip-clop of trotting horses in the background.

The most eye catching feature, and rightly so, in the medieval part is the timber framed Tudor House and Garden acknowledged as the most important historic building in Southampton. Over 800 years of history under one roof - artefacts displayed beautifully complete with  an AVP - and adjoining garden, a perfect recreation of a Tudor knot garden wafting with heady aromas from the herbs and blooms.  A brief provenance of the Tudor House:  It was originally three cottages which were joined together to create the Tudor House in 1491 by Sir John Dawtrey, MP and Sheriff after he married Jane William who had lost her husband Watkin William, the original owner of the cottages.  In 1518 Sir Richard Lyster, the richest man in Southampton acquired the property and he is credited with putting up rich tapestries on the walls.. The next owner George Rogers added an extension. 

Unfortunately when economic depression hit Southampton hard in the second half of the 18th century, Tudor House was not spared. The saving of the property was taken up in the last two decades of the century and in July 1912 it was opened as a museum. It was again closed in 2002 and remained so for nine years. This time it was not recession but full on repair that including strengthening  of walls, archaeological fieldwork etc besides the addition of a new block with toilets and a cafe. Today, it is maintained well and I loved some the creaking steps and floors, the penny farthing bicycle, the holes left by the iron tenterhooks in the beams around the ceiling and the kitchens. The recreation of the kitchens was so perfect that one wouldn't be surprised if a frilly aproned cook walked in wiping her hands on a dish towel and proceeded to roll out the pie pastry! 

The adjoining garden with parapets and mounts and a seat arbour is a winner all the way. Based on historic sources, the garden is said to be a recreation of a Tudor knot garden and the plants are representative of the types of plant especially the herbs and edible plants found in the Tudor period.  It's a place that  invites one to pick up a book and sit in the arbour for  hours occasionally popping into the Cafe facing the garden  for coffee/tea and some bites. 

There's more ancient history right next door. Through a stoned arch opening in one of the garden walls one can step on to the narrow, again stoned path, with an ancient cannon parked at the end to over what remains of King John's Palace. What remains of the palace are just high thick stoned walls with a couple of doors, windows and what looks like the entry entry but it is considered as one of the finest surviving examples of Norman architecture in the country . King John's palace is much older that then Tudor House and garden as the original house was built in the 1180s.  In the 1300s it was acquired by John Wytegod, a rich merchant as well as the mayor. The house was two storied with  living quarters on the top floor and the ground floor primarily served as a cellar stocked with wines imported from France. Today all that remains are house walls and this is where one feels like resorting to that old line - if only walls could talk.....