Footloose and Foodist

Viki Barcel Sofia!

No reservations required, just show up. That's the tantalising slogan of www.freesofiatour.con (+359 886 993 977) Twice a day, at 11 am and at 6 pm you just present yourself outside the Palace of Justice for the 'free English language sightseeing walking tour of Bulgaria's capital!' And believe me you are in for a real treat - a two hour educating, entertaining introduction to the Bulgarian capital and its history with visits to the best monuments, churches, institutions, parks and what have you. And not a penny charged! It's up to you to make some contribution to the non-profit organisation or, just say thanks and walk off. The tour guides are youngsters, mostly postgraduate students, some working and studying at the same time. The guides volunteer for two reasons- their love for their city and to improve their English and of course, the best commendation they want is for you to tell the world about Sofia and about the organisation.

By the time the hotel check in is over, it's too late for the 11 am appointment. It has to be the 6pm one though the greying skies leave one a little shaky, what if it pours. On the way it does shower compelling one to buy an umbrella, exorbitant cost for a cheap little Chinese made affair but well, beggars can't be choosers. On the way one is quite sceptical, scepticism by now must be ingrained in the Indian DNA- free tour hah! In this weather - no way! Would freesofiatour's claim of ' tours run all year long despite the weather' be really true? The shower peters to a barely there drizzle as one approaches the Palace of Justice. Yes there seem to be some people, 6-7 or so, standing and poring over some papers. Soon more join in. A chirpy voice says, are you here for the tour? That was Viki- 'just call me Viki' - our tour guide, a dimpled beauty with sparkling eyes with her long wavy hair tied up in a loose bun and holding a placard bearing the name of the organisation. A 20-year old studying law at the Sofia University, she is clearly a people's person instantly putting every one at ease. The papers is for all to put their names, nationality etc. Viki clearly has a mean bone of humour what with her witty comments(quite acerbic at times) and subtle one-liners. Viki loves travelling, she wants to travel the world and she loves meeting people from all over the world but she can't think of living anywhere but Sofia, her words not mine!

The tour group is a motley one- from three continents including Asia. There's a European family, the mother not at home with English and the young university going son patiently translating every sentence for her. There are three formally dressed guys, obvious that they are in the city for business and finding time to check out Sofia. There are two Israeli gentlemen, also on business, and hurrmph one of them seems to know more about India that I do!

The two-hour walking tour is well planned and covers most of what should be seen beginning with the coat of arms of Sofia. The city is one place where a church (Sveta Nedelya Church), a synagogue (Sofia Synagogue) and a mosque (Banya Bashi Mosque) all co-exist beautifully at arm's length from each other. Of course Viki makes sure that we get 'that point'. Each structure is a well maintained legacy. There are churches, mosques, synagogues, ancient ruins (Serdika), cathedrals, mineral water springs - somewhere underground and piped up, several pipes indeed where many of the locals seem to crowd with huge bottles and jars - former royal palace now an ethnographic museum, city garden, art galleries, ruins, National Palace of Culture, Sofia University, parliament and more. All with Viki's running commentary that while information laden was also laced with sardonic wit.

City Garden, Sofia

Sveta Nedelya (Orthodox) Church

Banya Bashi Mosque

Suddenly a statue on a tall column arrests everyone's attention. Who is she and what is it all about? The golden lady with outstretched arms, dressed in all black, flowing robes et al with a golden crown stands atop a 16-metre column bang in the middle of a busy crossroad. The statue is said to be 8-metre tall. In her right hand she holds a (black) wreath and on her left arm rests a (black) owl. The statue made its appearance in 2001 replacing guess what! The statue of old Vladimir Ilyich Lenin! Bulgaria was a communist nation for a long time, but I suppose the times are changing, or rather have changed. So old comrade Lenin was made to do the vanishing act and Saint Sofia, the city's patron now presides over a busy thoroughfare. Is it a coincidence that she faces the Batemberg Square where the presidency and the government houses are located? Not many Bulgarians seem to be happy with the local sculptor George Chapkanov's creation, certainly not Viki. What she had to say about the statue is best left unsaid! But I do agree that was something pagan-like about the statue, something dark and very unattractive and I am being polite as compared to Viki!

St Sofia, patron saint of Sofia

8-metre tall St Sofia atop a 16-metre column in the heart of the city

The next day,thankfully sunny and bright I take the tube to Serdika Metro station and retrace some of the walk, spending more time at places I loved. There was one particular place I had to go to and one particular test to carry out. The evening before, the two guards, in uniforms reminiscent of an imperial past, stood impassive and ramrod stiff at the entrance of the National Palace, no matter how many tourist thronged around or clicked photographs. If one went very close and peered into their face, eye-to-eye would they blink? That was the intention, unfortunately at the last minute I chickened out. I did go pretty close but all I could do was give a lame smile and timidly turn around and walk away to take photographs from a safe distance.

The two guards at National Palace

The other place that fascinated me and needed a second inspection, a much thorough one was the Church of St Petka of the Saddlers, built in the 15th century during the Ottoman rule. An ancient somewhat seemingly tiny structure close to the Serdika Metro station, with the backdrop (at a higher level) of The Central Department Store (TZUM) and the Sheraton Hotel, it stood out despite its small size, a remnant from the past coexisting peacefully with giant modern buildings. The church is partially underground and the entry is a small narrow lane at the right side of the church (left as you face it). The apparent main entrance, a huge iron door, past ten steps and a somewhat big threshold is shut; a metal chain stretches from one side of the steps to the other, indicating no going up from there. The entry fee of 2 Lev leads one to the door of the church and a glass enclosed shrine appears on the left. Several slim yellow candles flicker within. The myth is that the great Bulgarian revolutionary and national hero, Vasil Levski is said to be buried here (he was hanged by the Ottoman rulers) and a bronze plaque on a wall commemorates that. But as they say a myth is a myth and there is said to be no authentic proof of the fact. As to why the church is named St Petka of the Saddlers is an interesting tale - it was dedicated to martyr Petka Ikoniyska, an 11th century Bulgarian saint and was built with donation from the region's master saddlers. Also why the church is half buried into the earth is because apparently during the Ottoman rule, building of churches was allowed only if the height did not exceed that of a soldier on a horseback! Trust the Bulgarians to find a way around that and dig deeper into the ground. And oh! if you can pronounce it, the church is also known as the church of St Petka Samardzhiyska (Bulgarian for leather craftsmen). Inside it's carries a strong whiff of the past literally. It has a semi circle apse, a domed ceiling and vestiges of stunning frescoes on the walls. It leaves one wondering why they have not been restored. It evokes a feeling of both sadness and happiness. The Church is now a cultural monument and what is most touching is that it is functioning and regular services are held here.

Church of St Petka of the Saddlers

Inside the Church of St Petka of the Saddlers

One of life's great delight is to sit in a park on a bright day and watch the world pass by. There seem to be all kind of people; almost all the benches are occupied. There are pigeons all over and a little girl makes it appear that happiness is all about chasing the pigeons till they take flight. Her dad watches her with an indulgent smile. There's a lady smiling at me from the next bench, I smile back. She approaches, quite hesitatingly. Am I from India? I nod and a big grin splits her face, while a hand extends towards me. She is Triana Sharma, a Bulgarian married to an Indian or rather was married as sadly he died around seven years ago. Her husband was from Uttar Pradesh and was teaching English language at Sofia University, where they met, fell in love and married. Unfortunately Triana is not in a happy state now, a school teacher she has been laid off. She has a son (14) , a tall strappy lad, painfully shy and reticent. When he was small, his dad would talk to him only in Hindi, but now the child remembers no Hindi. Triana can just about say Namaste, thoda thoda, khubsoorat, dhanyabad and the likes. Her grandmother is accompanying the mother-son duo to the park. I never visited India, we always planned to but it never happened and now it's too late, she sighs. Maybe one day my son will, she says wistfully. I hope and pray he does. As evening creeps in, I have to leave. Namaste, says Triana and we both reach out for a hug. It feels good.