Pigging out

  

Trust the Austrians to walk divergent paths so elegantly–the imperial capital of the past, classical architecture, palaces, castles, Mozart, Beethoven, Dr Sigmund Freud, operas, sacher torte, schnitzel, wines is today also the conference capital of the world! They surely know how to make the most of what they have, which unfortunately at the cost of sounding like a Carping Cassandra; one can’t say the same for India despite its embarrassing wealth of historical monuments and such. Ah sigh!

The first time I had landed in Vienna was in November end. As the small plane from Luxumberg started descending, it was like being transported to fairyland, with snowflakes floating down, some even knocking on the plane window, while outside was a surreal misty world. It was love at first sight. This time it was way into the night when we exited the airport. For dinner of course we had to go to Naschmarkt. Unfortunately, it was a weekday and most of the eateries had pulled down shutters. And not surprisingly, the only place still operating was an Asian joint – so it was the regular mix of Chinese and Thai.   

I guess at the start of every travel, we all make resolutions not to over indulge, no binging, watching what we eat and drink and all the blahs. And like all the blahs, it went spinning out of the window the first day itself. The breakfast was heavy and we dutifully parroted the usual of 'let’s stick to a salad lunch and maybe later coffee and sacher torte'. Hah! Like the dreamy snowflake it melted instantly. Schnitzel it had to be and it had to be only at Figlmüller, the flagship restaurant on Wollzeile 5 1010, Vienna, the home of the schnitzel since 1905. (In 2001 Figlmüller opened another outlet at Backerstrabe 6, 1010 Vienna. There is also the original Figls, now a gastropub in Grinzing, in the suburbs of Vienna).  Figlmüller has an interesting history. Its website says that Johann Figlmüller opened a small wine tavern on Wollzeile, right behind St Stephen’s Cathedral, a place to propagate the Viennese way of life – a restaurant with a great menu and select wines for patrons to meet, dine and chat. Then of course the schnitzel happened!  

  

When we  landed there, every table was occupied and most of those waiting outside were directed to the other outlet at Backerstrabe 6. We of course wanted to lunch at the original one and after a bit of - aws, from India so far away, a table for two, we don't mind waiting worked - the steward finally relented and we got a table. Everything about the place says, we have been here for more than a century. It's a small-ish joint with two levels, the walls crammed with newspaper writings and reviews right from 1905, pictures of renowned dignitaries and celebrities who dined there. It's cosy, comfortable and welcoming. 

What then is the Figlmüller schnitzel that has everyone raving? It is a scrumptious, finger-licking pork dish that proves once again that great ingredients and a simple recipe work magic. In precise terms it is a flat round cutlet measuring around 30 centimetres. Yep at Figlmüller, measures and weights are taken seriously. The meat, weighing 250 gm is said to be a shoulder cut which is then pounded until is wafer thin. Next it is the regular egg and flour coating and hang on, the recipe is not complete. What comes last is the special ‘imperial’ breadcrumbs from the Austrian emperor bread rolls and these rolls are specially baked for Figlmüller. Then it is deep fried, just for 30 seconds till it is golden, crunchy on the outside and succulent inside and irresistible. While the Viennese potato salad is the general accompaniment, we opted instead for the green salad- a pile of greens, carrot slivers etc with an appetising citrussy sweet dressing.  Glasses of fruity wines, a squeeze of lemon over the schnitzel and then, you die and go to culinary heaven!

   

Yes, very soon we did pounce on sacher torte along with coffee. So much for resolutions!