FJORDS, FALLS, TROLLS!

          AND OH! PENGUINS TOO

 

Are all associations supposed to have justified logical reasoning?  Maybe, maybe not, but don't know why I always associated Norway with trolls. Not the trolls lurking in the digital space and social media but those mythical creatures with cyclopic eyes, misshapen nose and everything not pleasing to the eye. The trolls of Norwegian myths and folklore who lived in forests and caves and the wilderness in general and who went around saying, 'I smell the blood of Christian men!' It could be also because the mention of Norway was like involuntary clicking on another word- Fjord! So  trolls and fjords to me added up to a mystical world. Sure, the World Bank last year declared Norway as the richest country in the world;  sure it is one of the most developed civilized nation in the world but I was not going to let these cold facts get in the way of my romantic, however half-baked, imageries!

And so to Bergen, the second largest city in Norway on its southwestern coast and the gateway to the unique fjords of the country. Seven mountains all around it, the UNESCO Cultural Heritage site listed Bryggen right in the middle, the wharf, the funicular and cable car that take you to the top of the mountains in ten minutes from the heart of the city, art galleries, ships mooring at Vagen, the central harbour, boat building yards, the ancient fish market that combines commerce and dining seamlessly- the list can go on. Trolls? Large, medium and small in abundance but only in the souvenir shop and some very touristy centres. I guess its best to let them be in the hazy world of myths and folklore.  

The Fjords however exceeded all expectations. We took the early morning train to Myrdal at a height of 867 metres above sea level. Myrdal is also called the mountain railway station or the upper point of the universally known Flam railway or Flamsbana  and is just 13 kms south of Flam. Interestingly, it seems that there is no road connection to the somewhat small village of Myrdal and the only mode of transport is the train. The distance from Bergen to Myrdal is about 20 kms or so but the scenery outside of the train window is stunning loaded with snow-capped mountains, giant rocks, cascading waterfalls and of course, rivers.

From Myrdal one has to take the Flam  line or Flambana and it is truly a magical journey through the valley of Flamsdalen. Recognised as one of the world's 25 most beautiful train rides by The Society of International Railway, the little over 20 kms distance is also one the world's steepest train rides, built on normal tracks with 20 tunnels that weave in and out of mountains. Work on the Flam line begun in 1923 and it was only in 1946 that the project was completed. Earlier, of course, it was steam powered but from 1947 the electric locomotive came in. The interiors of the 12 cars thankfully, is replete with old world charm. The journey is not just  hold-your-breath and gape at the vista outside but comes with a bit of unexpected drama. The train stops briefly for passengers to step on to the viewing platform of Kjosfossen waterfall. The impact of the roaring torrent is such that  everyone is engulfed by the spraying mist. Then, suddenly one is not sure if one is actually hearing a soulful and very woeful tune emerging from somewhere behind the gigantic gushing cascade.  Is it or is it not - yes, there is an extremely light-haired female figure with long locks flying in the winds, in a red flowing attire who emerges from the forest behind, swaying to the music even as she leaps and cavorts all over the place. By the time the eyes locate and follow her, she literally plunges down somewhere behind the waterfall. First there is a collective gasp from the watching crowd and a split second later, another cheerful roar as she suddenly appears on the other flank of the waterfall.The similar light haired and clad in red figure is obviously a second actor continuing the show but if this is not a moment of suspension of all disbelief then what is? The whole drama lasts for barely a few minutes but it certainly spiced up the train ride.

The mysterious female figure, one learnt later was a 'Huldra', an elusive forest spirit from Norse mythology and the music was a Norwegian folk song. As per the local folklore the song and dance number is to lure men - no women please - into the woods to either seduce them and keep them as mates or worse as a virtual slave to obey all their bidding.  And I guess that's the last one sees of the men. Shades of Lorelei? The whole act is a production of the Norwegian Ballet School. Feeding to the tourists yes, but a very welcome interlude certainly.    

 

The Flam train takes about an hour from Myrdal to Sognefjord in Flam, Aurland and like par for course, it passes through some of the most beautiful regions - giant rocks, cliffs, rivers, waterfalls, villages with cute wooden cottages - and at Songefjord one is at sea level again. There's the Flam Railway museum which provides interesting insights into how the steepest railway in the world actualised. Turns out of the 20 tunnels on the route, 18 were actually hand work in every sense!There's the usual souvenir shops, eateries and cafe and even fine dining joints but you realise that the actual beauty of Flam can be experienced when you leave the train station and tourist spots and go further in. Unfortunately, we are booked to go back to Bergen on a ferry and its a couple of hours or so. But whatever short incursions we make confirm that the one above gave Norway an overdose of natural beauty.

On the way back it's a long 4-hour journey by ship but there is never a sense of it being too long. One stunning visual after another and in between braving the full blast chilly winds on the decks and trying to check out the fjords on both sides, the hours sped by. What impressed me most was that one of the leeward side a giant cliff there were just handfuls of small huts but they had perfectly built wide roads going up right to the doorsteps. Also, helipads were noticeable in quite a few large fjords.

After the train and the ship rides, it was swinging of another kind- bar hopping. It confirmed my belief all over again that spirit imbibing people smile a lot more, sing along a lot more however out of tune and most think they rock it on the dance floor! What pained me however was how in one joint a singer, said to be quite in demand with ardent fan followers, nearly mutilated Annie's Song. The singing was all over the place and I have never ever heard the song sung that way not even by myself in the bathroom! From that sorrowful depth, it was to the heights of Ulriken Mountain (643 metres) the next day. Ulriken is the highest of the seven mountains in Bergen and one of the best spots to get an all sweeping view of Bergen, the sea, the islands, fjords and the mountains. The cable car operates on a single-line 7.6 km railway tunnel. While the section overlooking the city is alive and buzzing with viewing points, restaurants, souvenir shops etc, turn and face the other way and the contrast is something - cold and hard towering cliffs with two hiking trails.  For the more adventurous who prefer to trek it up all the way, the final climb is via the Sherpa Steps. Yes, Sherpa in Norway. It seems that for more than a decade the sturdy Sherpas from the Himalayan country of Nepal have been working on various trail building projects all over Norway. It occurred to me that if the Sherpas easily carry their body weight on the oxygen starved slopes of Mount Everest, Ulriken might have  been an easy task. 

If it's the cable car to Ulriken, it is the Floibanen funicular to the top of Floyen (320metres above sea level) up a steep mountain slope takes just about 5 to 8 minutes. In fact, if a pin locating the exact heart of Bergen had to be put on the map of the city, it would the entry point of the Floibanen funicular. At the cost of being repetitive, the ride up and the views and vista is another delightful experience. Actually the delight has to  be shared equally with the goats! Floyenguttene or The Floyen Boys are six billy Cashmere goats. Yup goats christened Boots; Elvis (don't go looking for one with a bouffant hairstyle); Smaen; Festus Glide; Flekken and Alf all born in 2011. And Floyen is their home. The six boys were bred to clear vegetation and there job is to keep greenery at bay. Apparently, they spend the winters at an island and from Easter time it is back to Floyen. And some specialised pasture technology ensures that their movements is restricted to specific areas. While several visitors sought to click what else buts selfies, the goats didn't appear enthused about it at all. Their expressions seem to say hey humans hotfoot it from here and leave us alone. Or maybe I am not good at reading expressions.

 

If the goats were lording it in Floyen, the penguins at the Bergen Aquarium, the largest in Norway, were being themselves. Or at least that's what I would like to assure myself with. The aquarium was a bit of a dilemma but it was the penguins who titled the scale because naturally I wanted to see one in real life. There were the two sea lions who preferred to doze, there were fishes and fishes, there were reptiles (strictly avoided), turtles etc but I am not too comfortable with the idea of animals on display, so lets stop at that. And yes, whatever few visitors were there they were all parents escorting kids. 

A fish market bang in the middle of the city might not exactly sound like a tourist attraction but the one in Bergen is another kettle of fish altogether!  The outdoor section has been in existence since the 12th century(What is it with Bergen and the 12 century!) and operates during summer. And its not just seafood of every kind, colour and shape, but also fruits, vegetables, flowers and plants and eateries both in the outdoor and indoor sections.

After the gourmet serving of fjords, huldra, unique trains rides and ferry flush, mountain tops, funiculars and cable cars, fish market and especially after Bryggen it was the walks around Bergen through cobbled paths, scaling narrow steps, ambling through trees lined avenues, admiring churches and virtually ogling at the beautiful houses big, small and cute, taking breaks at intimate cafes in neighbourhoods, watching dogs at play and laughing kindergarten kids, in brief, a slice of life that was the most satisfying.