ISLAND IN THE SUN

   

That's where all the Danes go to see rocks, said our friend's friends in Copenhagen.  Now it will be sunny, island in the sun, they said. So did a few others in the Danish capital. In my mind was this sunny island quite populated with rocks. That's an admission that my mental slate was totally virgin territory where Bornholm was concerned and, I had no clue what was in store apart from going by the partner's claim that it was one of the most beautiful place we would be going to. So, there was this blank frame with rocks  of every size randomly strewn around and the sun shining brightly. I was of course, more than sure that I would get lots of salmon to dine on.

 

The imagined rocky island turned out to be a little bit of paradise.  Only 227 square kilometre but Bornholm is a place that fits what we say,  'Uparwale ne bade fursat se banaye' (the one above made Bornholm at full leisure). The one above was more than generous in endowing the island with every possible awe inspiring natural beauty. Yes, there are rocks - stunning cliffs, miles and miles of almost white sand beaches, thick forests, rolling greens, blue waters merging into the horizon, bobbing boats, fishing villages, lighthouses, old traditional smokehouses, stretches and stretches of perfectly cultivated lands, mediavel fortress, cute cottages and above all, the play of light was unbelievable, amazing chiaroscuro. The best of nature in one small island in the sun, everywhere one looked was simply breathtaking.

 

 

It was an early morning start in a bus to Ystad (Sweden) from where the final leg would be by ferry. Sometime into the journey, the green fields and patches of forest transformed into endless mustard fields. It took me sometime to realise that what looked like bright yellow endless carpet was good old mustard. And of course it was inevitable that makki ki roti and sarson ka saag and 'tuje dekha toh jana..' song from Dilwale Dulhania Le Jayenge played in a continuous loop in the head! If that wasn't enough, Natasha, the chirpy mother of two, seated behind us said we were in Sweden. Mustard fields and Sweden? Guess one always needs to learn. To the loop was added two instant associations with Sweden for me - Stieg Larsson and his protagonist Lisbeth Salander, the girl with the dragon tattoo which is understandable but weirdly, a friend's sister married to a Swede husband and loves nothing better than Indian vegetable seeds to plant there particularly radish. 

 

 

 

The loop was arrested without brake when the bus stopped because all passports/ID needed to be checked by the Swedish authorities. Two cops- who looked young enough to  be college kids- got, one a blond man and the other, a young woman in hijab. Both looked so serious and stern, it made me wonder if projecting such an expression was part of their training. Meanwhile, Natasha, it is clear, loves to chat. She tells us she is working with the government while partner, seated next to her who never said a word but thankfully let a smile or two play around his lips, is still a student. Their older son is 9 years old. Marriage, she said, will  probably happen when they manage to pay off the student loans etc. Before long the Oresund Bridge is behind us and we are the Ystad  to board a high speed ferry (Bornholmslinjen) which takes an hour and 20 minutes. Incidentally, the Copenhagen-Bornholm lasts all of 35 minutes but I am glad we didn't take that.

 

The vehicles first board the ferry in an orderly manner, park, then the passengers alight and troop up. We follow Natasha and her partner's lead and are all seated and ready in the bus in perfect timing before the ferry docks  at Ronne and we are driven out. From the moment one drives into Bornholm, its charm is captivating.And above all, it is home to the rogeri or smokehouses which turn out the best of smoked fish especially herrings. The smoking of fish is said to have been introduced by Scottish sailors in the mid 19th century and gradually rogeri or smokehouses began to be set up all over the island. It is immediately identifiable with its tall open chimney/s - often one giant one, sometimes two, three or more - in a row with light smoke swirling up into the skies. The smokehouses function seasonally opening around April for six months or so. The smokehouses function as both shops and restaurants. We headed straight to Robiertia Rogeri at Svaneke with its five chimney stack in black and white, indoor and outdoor sitting, the lapping Baltic Sea right next door and two wonderful women, talkative and extremely helpful running the whole show.  Delicately scented with the aroma of the wood used, smoked for hours and falling off the fork, something one could savour again and again. And of course, besides the salmon and others, it had to be herring as the starter! 

 

The Rogeri experience set the way for our stay in Bornholm, travel around, take in and experience natural beauty and gluttony with a slight aberration. In keeping with our past tradition we just couldn't find the Dondalen falls, said to be highest in Bornholm! This time to  be honest we also gave up easily. We got down at the right spot on the road from Gudhjem to Tejn and started hiking into the wooded area, up and up we went, found a large meadow on the right and walked further and further and quite up into the forest which never seemed to be ending. The hike to the falls was said to be about 2 km   The hike to the falls was said to be about 2 km. All ears alert to hear the roar of falling water but no go. So we traced our steps back and started walking into the forest from another side, somehow there was the sense that it was the wrong route again. It was getting late in the day and it didn't seem a wise move to go further on. But water we did find, however little with a narrow plank like wooden bridge over it. Maybe if we had followed it upstream we could have found the waterfalls but then it remained a maybe.

 

 

And so we went off to medieval times and the largest castle ruins in Northern Europe! To the northern tip of Bornholm to Hammerhus, said to be built in the early 12th century, the ruins still stand  majestic on a 74-metre rocky plateau overlooking the Baltic Sea and assumed to be have been built by the Archbishop of Lund. The ruins are in quite good condition and the view towards the sea is magical. It's history comes replete with power tussle between the King and the church (till today it is clear that we never learn from history!) until about 15th century until the church finally gave in to the crown. It it is politics and religion, can treason be far behind? Nope. Apparently in the 17th century the Danish King Christian IV's daughter, Leonora Christina and her husband were imprisoned in the castle for treason. The couple tried to escape down the walls and cliffs but unfortunately failed. It was in 1740s that Hammerhus was given up as a stronghold and - wonder who signed the sanction - people of Bornholm could source building materials from the site. That continued for 79 years or so until wisdom prevailed and the Hammerhus ruins were put on the national historic register.


A big group of school kids, complete in colourful medieval gear engaged in spirited jousting supervised by a couple of adults. Appeared to be a history lesson exercise. When you manage to look away from the mesmerising views of the water and cliffs and come to the other side, an equally amazing sight meets the eyes. The visitor centre is literally wedged into the ruins facing side of a small rise with a flat field on top. Unless you look at it from the ruins, it is difficult to be seen otherwise. The long flat rectangular structure with large glass windows that provide panoramic view is quite a piece of architectural genuis.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bornholm is small, so why not a ride around the whole island? We did that and I loved every bit of it, not just what lay outside but also how the transport system functions. The bus often drove for miles sand miles with just one passenger besides us. At best there would be not more than 8-10 commuters. Sometimes, it would be just us.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We were staying in Ronne, the entry point to Bornholm and as it always happens one checks out the neighbourhood mostly when you return back to where one is staying and that too when it is for required essentials or late night meals.  As we walked around one really late evening - its daylight for a long, long time-  and beyond what appeared to the main centre of Ronne, most of the eateries and shops had either closed down or was on the verge of doing so. Picture a beautiful setting, bright sunlight and yet, no people around, barely a soul here and there or the last of the diners seen framed in some restaurant. At one point it felt like a movie set, as if the locals and the regulars knew of impending doom and fled the scene and us, like two bumbling souls were all over the place. Thankfully, we found a Thai joint open and one couldn't have asked for a better deal than steaming hot dishes redolent with orient flavours. The pretty young manager was Sasithorn, married to a Dane and living in Bornholm for the last four years. The husband too is a chef and she said he was busy at work too but in some other place. The Thais, she said, were discovering Bornholm and there was even an association with over 1000 members. Needless to say that she ensured that our meal was more than good and better still, didn't rush us through. 

Perfect weather, blue skies, blue seas, silky smooth beaches, delectable food, impressive cliffs, forests and meadows, warm people - well if it is beginning to read like a travel brochure blame it on the Baltic beauty, Bornholm! Oh, don't forget the rocks. At the rate of sounding so shallow, I think going to see the rocks of Bornholm is the Danish version living it up, literally on the rocks!