Unexpected Delights!
When
you least expect it, life can shower you with unexpected delights. It might
read like a high school essay but like good ole’ Robert Frost said, ‘two roads
diverged in a wood and I, I took the one less travelled and that has made all
the difference.’ OK we were not in the woods; it was a lovely Sunday morning
when we started driving to Salzburg from Vienna. Corny as it may sound it was
one of those days when you find yourself humming unconsciously and feeling
totally contented. And why not, I was finally on way to Salzburg. Remember
Sound of Music, need I say more?
Somewhere
on the way, maybe after an hour’s drive or so, our friend in Vienna who was
driving us around, suggested that we take a slight detour to Melk. It’s a
beautiful place and there is a fantastic church, he held out as bait. Did I bite? Not wholeheartedly as all I wanted
to do was reach Salzburg at the earliest and check out the Sound Of Music locales especially
Mirabell Gardens where the timeless song do-re-mi was shot. But on way to Melk
we were, and thank god for it.
Melk Town |
Melk,
located in the Wachau Valley, turned out to be one those hidden treasures. It
was only on reaching there we learned that one could take a river cruise there
from Vienna and have a wonderful day trip. Next time, I promised myself. Our
destination was the stunning Melk Abbey (Stift Melk), up a gentle winding road.
The gigantic Benedictine monastery and the Melk abbey can be in a way called
the crown of the town. Overlooking the town, the Abbey at one time was a palace
or a rather a medieval fortress belonging to the House of Babenberg and the
grandeur still remains. The Benedict
monks received it as a gift from Leopold 11 of Babenberg in the 11th
century and turned it into an abbey. The structure was damaged during the 1683
Turkish invasion and the abbey, a full Baroque style, was built by architect
Jakob Prandateur. In 1947 a fire partially damaged it but the restoration work
makes it difficult to believe that any portion of it had been ruined. Today, it
stands stately and regal, amidst a landscaped garden with impressive marble
statues, totally awe inspiring. The monastic community has not only survived
but is thriving and one was lucky to spot a black-robed monk pass by. What I
like most is that now it is a co-ed monastery school.
Past
the entrance is the large courtyard with a fountain at the centre. There’s the museum
with 11 rooms, each with a theme. There’s also a terrace from where you can see
Melk town below and the Danube too. And believe it or not the abbey library
houses over 100,000 manuscripts and more, dating back to the 15 the century.
Then comes the abbey church, once you step in you realise words are so
ineffective to describe the place. It is an experience beyond definition. The
church has a huge dome and bell towers, the frescoes (by Johann Michael
Rottmayr), the stained glasses; the gilding's are breathtaking as is everything
else. It also has a sarcophagus containing the remains of St Coleman. The
grandeur, the art works,the richness of it all might have been overwhelming otherwise but the solemn ambiance and the hush around despite quite a number of visitors, makes one realise that this indeed is
a house of prayer and meditation. You send a prayer up for being lucky enough
to have stumbled upon it.
We
start our drive back to Salzburg. There is a happy feeling all around and so
when our friend says, before we hit Salzburg we have to take another detour,
Lake Mondsee is a must, I am more than amenable. As we drive towards the lake with
the Alps ahead, stunning blue skies, rolling hills, chalet like houses, the
greenery makes one feel as if we are somewhere in Switzerland. Then we reach
the lakeside and I lose my heart all over again. Lost for words once again and
so thankful all over again. Plumb in the middle of a perfect alpine setting is
Lake Mondsee, with the sun streaking a shimmery silver sheen on its waters. I – as kids say now- like totally envy the
people who live around it. I would like
so totally like to be a guest in one of the houses for quite a long time!
In Alpine land |
Lake Mondsee |
I would like so totally like to be a guest in one of those houses/hotels! |
Look Ma I can swim! |
Cheers! |
We
sit in one of the cafes bang next to the lake. It’s Sunday and there seem to be
many local families crowding the place. Some tables seem to hold two, three
generations of the same family. Kids are always kids everywhere and there are
young mothers chasing them around, trying to get them to eat something. A kiddy
park adjoining the café seems to draw the kids like magnet. It takes some time but finally we are seated
at a table closest to the lake. A smallish duck is paddling away all alone. Is it me or is it all mothers – I look around
to see if the mother duck is nearby. She seems to be far away, but I am sure
she knows better how far her child is allowed to swim than I do! Later as we are
leaving I turn around and yes, the naughty duck is close to the mother. We can’t have lunch; we still need to get to
Salzburg but a glass of wine is always welcome. It’s an apricot wine, the local
produce, reddish golden, chilled and refreshing.
Lake
Mondsee is said to be the warmest lake in the Salzkammergut area of Austria. Looking
down on the lake is the Drachenwand rock face which I suspect in the night
would look a little forbidding and aloof. Right now however, it’s a picture
postcard scenario. That is until a sheer show off aviator decides to display
his flying skills. My knowledge about planes is more than zero, but the plane
is a small affair, all white with bits of red lines with a deafening whirring
noise and the lone man in the cockpit seems hell bent on proving that he can
perform every flying trick in the book. At one times there is a dismayed
collective gasp when the plane seems to free fall, all the while emitting white
smoke. Will it crash into the lake? As
everyone hold their breath, the plane almost skimming the water zooms up
straight, flies off and disappears behind the rock face. Good riddance, I say
silently. But no, he is back again like a pesky fly – a sure fire signal that
it’s time to go, reluctantly or otherwise.
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